| Crate
Training - One Approach to Housebreaking, Part 2 |
| Crate Training the
8 to 12 week old puppy |
| Young
puppies have very small bladders and can not control them
very well. They have to eliminate much more often than
older puppies or adult dogs. To have a successful crate
training program, follow the guidelines below. |
| Place
a cardboard box or some other material in the crate to
allow the puppy only enough room to lie down and turn
around. A blanket or old towel can be placed in the remainder
of the crate as the puppy’s bed. Leave the crate
door open so your puppy has access to his bed (crate)
and a small area right outside the crate door allowing
for a “bathroom spot” outside of his crate.
You may line his “bathroom area” with newspapers
for easy clean up. The papers are there for easy clean
up but not to deliberately teach the puppy to go on them.
Paper training your puppy is not recommended. Make sure
the barricade is sturdy enough to prevent the puppy from
climbing out and relieving himself in an inappropriate
spot. This “bathroom spot” should not be a
large area, usually two feet square is plenty of room. |
| As
the puppy approaches three months of age he can be expected
to “hold it” longer. A four month old puppy
can usually spend an entire night without having to relieve
himself, as long as he did his business right before going
to bed and he has not had any water at least two hours
before bedtime. At three months you can begin shutting
the door of his crate and leaving him for four or five
hours at a time, BUT make sure your puppy has relieved
himself first, had a good exercise session, and has a
pleasing chew toy in his crate when you leave. Most puppies
that have had access to their crates from beginning have
no complaints. The first time they are shut in, they may
cry a little, but ignore them and soon they will give
up and go to sleep. |
| DO
NOT LET YOUR PUPPY OUT WHEN HE IS CRYING RIGFHT AFTER
YOU HAVE SHUT THE DOOR ( the exception to this is if you
have forgotten to take him out to do his business first
before locking him in). If you let your puppy out while
he is crying, you will have taught him that crying gets
his way (emotional blackmail!). Always wait until your
puppy is quiet before you let him out of his crate. |
| The
only other exception to this is when you first get up
in the morning and your puppy is probably “loaded”
and needs to go out immediately. Take him out right away.
Also if you have been gone during the day for any length
of time,. You want to take your young puppy out immediately
upon your arrival home. As your puppy physically matures
and gains bladder and bowel control, you can expect him
to “hold it” longer. A rough gauge of how
long your puppy can hold it during the day is how ever
many months your puppy is in age, is equal to how many
hours he can hold it safely in the daytime. So if your
puppy is four months old, he can probably hold it safely
for four hours at a stretch during the daytime and so
on. |
| Your
puppy’s crate should only contain an old towel,
a special chew item such as a stuffed Kong toy or stuffed
sterilized beef bone. Do not leave food or water in the
crate with your puppy. You can teach your puppy to enter
his crate upon command. Read the section on crate training
the adult dog to find out how. |
| Crate Training the
5 month old puppy and adult dogs |
| Although
crate training the older puppy or adult dog is not as
easy as a young puppy, it can still be done with less
hassle than would be expected. Most dogs resent being
confined at first, but soon learn to love and enjoy the
security their crate provides. |
| Patience,
persistence, some small yummy treats your dog enjoys,
a squirt bottle and a good set of ear plugs are the only
requirements to begin crate training. The first step is
to let your dog investigate the crate with the door securely
tied open. Throw his favorite toy or one of his treats
just inside the lip of the crate and watch what happens.
As soon as your dog goes in after the treat or toy, praise
enthusiastically with a happy tone of voice (do not try
to shut the door at this point). Keep tossing the treats
or toy into the crate so your dog has to go further in
each time. Remember to praise as your dog goes IN the
crate. Ignore him once he steps out of the crate. Keep
this up until your dog quickly and easily goes into the
crate whenever you toss his toy or treat into the very
back of the crate. Next try putting his food dish in the
crate so if he wants to eat he has to go in. DO NOT TRY
TO CLOSE THE DOOR JUST YET. At this point you are still
trying to build confidence in your dog that this indoor
doghouse is his and will not “eat” him. This
procedure may take a few minutes to a week or more. |
| The
next step is to actually shut him in the crate. Do not
shut your dog in the crate until he is easily going in
and out of the crate without any hesitation or fear. Give
his command such as “ZONE OUT”, and as soon
as he goes in, give him a special chew toy (like a stuffed
Kong, Tuffy or a rawhide bone) or feed him his meal and
quietly shut the door. Be ready for the verbal onslaught!
Stay in the same room for a few minutes and then when
your dog is quiet, open the crate door and let him out. |
| If
your dog is being very vocal, quickly rap on the top of
the crate while you give the command “QUIET”.
Wait until he is quiet for a minute or two, THEN let him
out while he is still quiet. If rapping is not working,
try a water-filled squirt bottle set on straight stream.
Aim it right at his nose and squirt him several times
as you give the command “QUIET”. Again wait
for several minutes of silence BEFORE YOU LET HIM OUT.
This is where the persistence and perseverance part comes
in |
| The
more consistent, firm and unyielding to his complaints
you are, the faster your dog will crate train. If at any
time he refuses to enter his crate, just gently push him
in and once he is in there, give him a treat and shut
the door. If you have a large dog, put his leash on, thread
the leash through the back or far side of his crate and
gently guide his front end in as you push the rear in.
YOU MUST LET HIM KNOW THAT HE HAS NO OTHER CHOICE. Don’t
yell or threaten him, just quietly put him in his crate.
Once he is there, praise him enthusiastically, shut the
door and the give him his treat through the door. |
| Practice
the above five or six times a day, each time increasing
the time our dog has to spend in his crate by five minutes
each time you try it. Try moving into a different room
when he is in his crate. Be ready to stop the verbal insults
when you do this. By the time you reach up to twenty minutes,
your dog can safely be let in his crate for several hours
at a stretch. Leave him for an hour or two inside his
crate while you watch TV or clean the house. Let him feel
secure that he will not be left in there forever, that
he will be let out eventually and that you are not going
to go away and forget about him forever. Just make sure
he has been exercised, has eliminated first and gets his
special chew toy when he goes in his crate for longer
periods. |
| What are some of
the other advantages to having a crate trained dog? |
| Well,
a dog that feels secure in his crate is much easier to
take on long road trips than a dog that is left to jump
excitedly around the inside of the car. Your dog does
not get hit by falling camping gear and is much safer
should an accident occur. |
| Hotels
or motels are much more willing to allow dogs to stay
if you bring your dog’s crate, plus the maid isn’t
likely to accidentally let your dog loose into the streets
of a strange city should your dog be crated while you
are out. Dogs being shipped by plane or train feel much
more secure and can handle the stress of traveling much
easier if they have their own crate to travel in. |
| Crate training sounds
like a great idea, but should everyone crate train their
dog? |
Not
necessarily, but if you are considering crate training
as a method of housebreaking, you should ask yourself
these questions:
1. Do you find yourself constantly punishing your dog
for the same misbehaviors?
2. Is your dog spending more and more time outside and
less and less time with the family because of destructive
or uncontrollable behavior?
3. Do you have children under the age of ten in your household?
Is the once placid Rover now becoming snappish or too
rough with your kids?
4. Are you declining dinner invitations and only scheduling
errands when you know someone else will be home to make
sure the dog doesn’t destroy the house while you
are gone?
5. Does your dog think his name is “BAD DOG”?
|
| If
you answered YES to any of these questions, then perhaps
you should think more seriously about crate training.
Even if you have none of these problems, crate training
is a nice thing to do for your dog. Dogs love their crates.
Plus you are preventing your dog from developing unwanted
behaviors such as chewing and digging. So, give it a try.
You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. Crate
training is one approach to house breaking and the prevention
of destructive behaviors. |